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Heated Mirror Mod

Written by  Ben Lightner
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heated mirror mod toyota tacomaWith cold weather just around the corner, some Tacoma owners are reminded of one option that is not available for our trucks, regardless of the trim level - Heated Mirrors. While it's a small luxury to have, it is convenient and relatively inexpensive to add Heated Mirrors yourself.

There are a few different methods to add heated mirrors to your Tacoma: Motorcycle Grip Warmers, Muth Co. Mirrors, ProEFX Towing Mirrors, OEM 4Runner Mirror Swap. These methods range in cost from $50-$500+, with $300 being the median average. In this write-up, we'll be installing heated mirrors using OEM Toyota Highlander Mirrors and a matching OEM switch, with the total cost being about $200.

 


NOTE: This mod requires the use of (1) full-sized OEM switch blank (to the left of the steering wheel). If you do not have any full-sized blanks, e.g. - newer TRD Off-Roads, please see bgreenley's supplemental write-up on TacomaWorld: <<REMOVE LINK>> http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/270435-finally-oem-heated-mirror-option-off-road-package.html
DISCLAIMER: I do not in any way consider myself to be an expert, and I accept no responsibility for any harm, damage, or injury that comes from anyone attempting this mod. Do so at your own risk.

TOYOTA PARTS NEEDED - These can be purchased online or from your local Toyota dealership
•    Toyota Highlander Mirror Left - Part No. 87961-0E070
•    Toyota Highlander Mirror Right - Part No. 87931-0E080
•    Toyota Highlander Mirror Switch - Part No. 84871-48030
•    Toyota Amber Bulb (optional) - Part No. 90011-01058
•    Toyota Highlander Mirror Switch plug - Part No. 90980-10789
•    (5) Toyota Terminal Leads - Part No. 82998-12340
-OR-
•    (5) Sumitomo TS / SL Female Terminal 0.5 - 1.25 mm2 Terminal Plugs (sourced online @ bmotorsports.com)

OTHER PARTS NEEDED
•    10-Amp ATM Fuse Tap
•    (1) SPST or SPDT Relay
•    (1) SPST or SPDT Plug
•    (3) 14-16 gauge Quick-Splices
•    (4) 14-16 gauge butt connectors
•    (3) 14-16 gauge 1/4" Ring Terminals
•    (4) .110" 16 gauge Female Spade Terminals
•    (2) .187" 16-22 gauge Male/Female Terminals
•    30' 16 AWG Primary Wire
•    Heat-Shrink Tubing (various sizes)

TOOLS NEEDED
•    Wire Cutters
•    Wire Crimpers
•    Wire Strippers
•    Needle Nose Pliers
•    Large Philips head screwdriver
•    Various Flathead screwdrivers (from Micro to Large)
•    Soldering Iron (optional)
•    Panel Removal Tool
•    Zip-ties
•    Electrical Tape
•    Corrugated Conduit (optional)
•    Coat hanger or Wirepuller
•    Scissors and/or Utility Knife
•    T-25 Torx Bit driver or Wrench
•    Vise-Grips
•    10mm & 11mm Socket
•    ATM Fuses
•    Safety Glasses
•    Safety Gloves
•    Light!

APPROX. WIRE LENGTHS (about 30' total)
•    Driver's Side +12v Mirror Lead (.110" Female spade to Quick-Splice to Relay 87) = 60"
•    Passenger Side +12v Mirror Lead (.110" Female spade to Quick-Splice) = 140"
•    Mirror Ground Leads x2 (.110" Female spade to 1/4" ring terminal) = 30"/each
•    Fuse-Tap (Quick-Splice from Switch #5 Lead to Fuse-Taps butt connector)= 10"
•    (5) Switch +12v Lead (Sumitomo to butt connector to Relay 30) = 24"
•    (4) Switch (Sumitomo to butt connector to Relay 85) = 24"
•    (3) Switch Ground (Sumitomo to 1/4" ring terminal) = 15"
•    (2) Switch (Sumitomo to .187" female spade) = 5"
•    (1) Switch (Sumitomo to .187" female spade) = 5"

STEP 1: Remove the door panels and Lower Dash Panel
(1)    Disconnect the battery!
(2)    Remove the door panels and lower-dash instrument panel. This is a pretty straight-forward process needing only a 10mm socket and a Philips-head screwdriver, but there are some screws and bolts hiding behind covers. If needed, you can check online for different "How-Tos" to take your door panels, lower dash, and mirrors apart.
Door Panels: http://youtu.be/yjhYKzE_yBg (video from TacoTunes.com)
Lower Dash Panel:
*NOTE: You may want to remove the front seats to allow for more room to work under the dash
(1)    Remove out the storage tray to the right of the steering wheel (if equipped)
(2)    Flip down that little panel to reveal a hidden bolt
(3)    Pull the scuff-plate trim up
(4)    Remove the foot-rest right next to the Parking Brake
(5)    Unscrew the rubber cap-screw and remove the lower kick-panel
(6)    Remove the (2) bolts and "gently" pull out to unclip the lower dash assembly
(7)    Unplug any switches/connectors
(8)    Don't forget about the TPMS plug and hoot-latch cable.

STEP 2: Remove and Disassemble the Side Mirrors, then run your Mirror Leads.
Here's a useful guide from Muth Co:  http://shop.muthco.com/content/pdf/install/21001150.pdf
(1)    Disconnect the white plug harness. Unscrew the (3) nuts holding the mirror with an 11mm socket, making sure to support the mirror so it doesn't fall after you loosen the nuts. Remove both mirrors and set them on a soft surface to begin disassembly.
(2)    Carefully remove the mirror glass. Gently press on the top of the mirror glass to create a gap on the bottom. You can slide a flat-head screwdriver in the gap and into the small recessed areas of the white back plate. "Pop" the glass out from the back plate, and pull down and out to remove.
(3)    Remove the electrical tape on the wiring harness, and remove the plastic piece inside the sail. Also, this plug-cover will need to be removed from the plug in order for it to fit through the openings.
(4)    Open the plastic cover on the bottom of the mirror, and unscrew the (2) screws with a T-25 Torx bit. Remove the sail from the mirror housing, and remove the last hidden Torx screw.
(5)    Unkink the wiring harness, and prep your wire-leads. Remove the power window motor from the housing to make it easier to run the leads. I ran my wires inside the plastic sheath, but you can run them outside as well.
(6)    Crimp or solder the .110" Female Spade terminals that will connect to the Highlander mirror tab terminals. I heat-shrinked the terminals since they will be the most exposed component.
(7)    After weaseling the leads through each mirror assembly, and putting them back together, make sure you have at least 7.5" hanging out for the mirror plug to reach the connector (don't forget to slip the cover back on the plug).
(8)    Connect your.110" terminals to the Highlander Mirror, and carefully install the Highlander mirrors in the back plate. They will snap into place with a little persuasion.
(9)    I crimped a 1/4" Ring Terminal on each 30" mirror Ground lead. I then grounded each mirror to this bolt inside the door.
(10)     Next, feed each +12v POS mirror lead through the door and into the cab. I found it was easiest to "unplug" both sides of the boot. I taped some extra length of Zip-Tie to my wire, fed it through, and plugged the boot back in
*Note: For the passenger side - once it was inside the cab, I wrapped the lead in 3/8" black plastic conduit, and ran it along the silver tube behind the dash, and used some Zip-Ties along the way.

STEP 3: Assemble Your Circuit
I followed this great schematic made by CtryBoyInMT on TacomaWorld.
(1)    On the back plug of the Highlander Switch, I used the (5) Sumitomo Terminals instead of the Toyota pigtails. It was much cheaper and worked great.  Follow the 1-5 sequence in the wiring diagram to measure & connect your leads.
(2)    Wire-up your relay plug.
(3)    Mount your relay. There's an open hole on a metal mount up and to the left of the brake pedal that is a great location.
(4)    I had to splice into the Illumination Dimmer wires from the Fog Light switch in order to connect the #1 & #2 Switch Plugs. I followed the wire layout on the Fog Light switch and used SOLID GREEN for Plug #1, and GREEN w/ WHITE for Plug #2. This allowed the switch to illuminate and dim with the rheostat control like the other switches.
(5)    Gather all your leads (Mirror POS leads, Fuse-Tap, Switch leads) and connect them to your relay plug.
(6)    Plug in the Fuse-Tap. I tapped into the "Gauges" fuse. I added a 10A fuse (might be overkill), and had to install a 7.5A fuse for the "Gauges" Circuit. This is an ignition controlled circuit, and my heated mirrors will only work when the ignition is turned ON. The switch itself has a 15 minute timer, so it will turn off after 15 minutes, if you press the button again or turn the ignition off. The standard fuses are Low-Profile ATM fuses, whereas the Fuse Tap takes standard ATM fuses, so be sure to have a couple on-hand.

STEP 4: Re-Assemble Everything
(1)    Give all wires a good once over. Use as much Tape, Zip-Tie, conduit as desired. Make sure everything is tucked-up nicely and secure. Plug everything back in, re-assemble the dash, instrument panel, doors, kick panels etc. Re-Connect your battery.
(2)    Crack open your favorite frosty beverage, turns on the ignition, and test out your new heated mirrors.
•    See the Heated Mirrors in action: http://youtu.be/j1fvnj0Ux4Q

•    The original write-up can be found on TacomaWorld.com: www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/193528-oem-heated-mirrors-diy-mod.html. Be sure to check it out for alternative methods, discussions, and more useful information!


Thanks to TacomaWorld Members: tsilliker, shawnd2, CtryBoyInMT, 84Hilux, bgreenley, File IFR, and OldEric11.

Special Thanks to: Shane, Bob, and Jim @ Tacoma Magazine!

Feel free to contact me (Benson X) on TacomaWorld with any questions or comments. Also, be sure to check out my other write-ups and reviews while you're there!

Stay Safe, Be Prepared, Tread Lightly, and Happy Trails!
© 2013 B. Lightner (Benson X). All photographs by B. Lightner, unless otherwise noted.

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